Alaska: Part III

So after Tracy Arm (being a slight bit of disappointment), our ship made its way towards Juneau.  It was pretty smooth sailing as we remained sheltered by land on both sides, navigating through the channels.  But I could tell that the weather was turning for the worst.  It had been overcast in Tracy Arm, but now, even at ~noon as we sailed towards Juneau, it was starting to really look gloomy.

Juneau: still 1.5 hours away.  I didn't know it when I took this shot at 400mm, but this indeed, was Juneau.

Juneau Panorama.  Was a rather damp day in Juneau, though we missed the rain by going to Taku Lodge

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But the weather wasn't terribly discouraging since, as previously noted, the forecast had called for rain 6 out of the 7 days, so rain would have been right on schedule.  Here are some additional photos as we were nearing Juneau.

Looking back, heading away from Tracy Arm and towards Juneau.

One thing about clouds is that at least it makes for a more dramatic sky.

I didn't know it at the time of taking this shot, but this would be the very plane to our next destination.

I left the excursion decisions for my wife to decide.  I figured I already got us on a boat and out of state for the week, I've done my part.  So another friend had clued us in on this particular excursion and we thought it would be worth partaking.  Taku Glacier Lodge via Wings Airways.  It involved a plane ride in one of 3 de Havilland's (each seating 10 adults) whisking you away from Juneau to a little lodge called Taku Glacier Lodge.  The lodge itself has quite an interesting history and you'll get a little story-telling during lunch/dinner about how the lodge came to be.  Whether the story is true or not, well... who knows and we really didn't care. 

The excursion itself is $280/person.  (Yes... pricey.)  It's about 3-3.5 hours.  You're flown from Juneau in a bush plane for about 30 minutes, flying over some mountain tops and over some MASSIVE (to me at least) and impressive glaciers.  You're given a headset with narration giving you the history on the particular glacier and interesting tidbits on Alaska.  You then land near a cozy lodge, where fresh salmon is cooked and served to you in a delicious, heart-warming meal.  You're then given a 10-15minute story-telling during the meal.  After which, you're invited to go on a short walk into the woods.

 

 

Up, up, and away!

Our pilot.

I guess the photo above could use a little bit of explaining.  No, we weren't allowed to move around in the small de Havilland bush plane.  What had happened was that unknowingly, thinking I was being nice in letting everyone else board ahead of me onto the plane, being the last one on the plane, I soon realized there was no seat for me.  I looked to the back, and to the front, and hunched there (since the fuselage was too small to actually stand upright) confused.  Shortly after, the pilot followed me into the plane and said, "Well, you'll just have to ride shotgun."

My eyes lit up like a little kid and I believe I exclaimed, "You serious?!?"  Our friend on the trip, obviously envious of my shotgun seat quickly remarked, "Hey, I'll take it!"  But before he could finish that sentence, I had hopped into the front seat.  It's my first time being in a small plane, and I certainly didn't expect to be riding in the cockpit.  WoooooOOOOot!

Glaciers, anyone?

That's a LOT of ice.

A thought came across my mind as I was up in the plane:  If I could sell glacial ice and there was a market for it, I'd be a billionaire.  :P

If I hadn't mentioned that I get motion-sickness rather easily... well, I do.  For the majority of the way to the lodge, I was fine, as the there was very little turbulence and the pilot kept the plane pretty straight.  But towards the end... as he was rocking the plane side-to-side, whether to let the passengers get a better look at the vista below, or perhaps to better position the plane in preparation for the landing, that's when my head started spinning.  So the last 5 minutes of the ride felt like I was tossed into a dryer and spun around a few times.

Well, thankfully for me, the plane did eventually land.  By the way, I was pleasantly surprised that taking off and landing on water is surprisingly pleasant.  There seemed to be a lot less shaking/vibration when compared to the jet airplanes.  Not sure if this is due to it being slower and being a propeller engine.  Or if it's because skirting across the water makes the ride much smoother.

In any case, we landed and found ourselves walking into a real life postcard.  Again, shame that the skies were overcast but it didn't seem all that bad.  At least it wasn't raining.

As you'll see, here's a guy in a t-shirt, cooking the delicious salmon on an outdoor grill.  The rest of us tourists were bundled up since the temperature was probably in the mid-50s at best, if not lower.  50s must be shorts & t-shirt weather up there.

Nothing like some fresh, delicious salmon.

Believe it or not, there's a bear in that tree, somewhere.  And that little tent structure on the lower right?  Well... that's where the guy was grilling salmon.  That's too close for comfort IMO.

Believe me now?  Can you see Waldo?

Fortunately for us, the employees of the Lodge all have their dogs (labs) there so I think, or at least I hoped, the dogs was what helped kept the bear at bay and on the tree.

Petting a lab is much safer than petting a black bear.

Big stick used for bear clubbing?

Our group (sans me as I was taking the photo).

There it is again.

And again...

I'm assuming this is the "Taku Glacier," hence the name Taku Glacier Lodge.  Else that would be quite the misrepresentation/false advertisement.

So once the salmon was brought into the lodge, guess who showed up.  A bigger, fatter black bear.  (Not the same one that was on the tree.)

Here is the smaller black bear that came down from the tree, eyeing the grill and waiting its turn, as the bigger black bear snarled at it whenever it got too close.

So here's the salmon meal.  And boy was it deeeeeelicious.  I guess for $280, it better damn well be the best salmon I've ever had.  Perhaps it was the location, the ambiance, but I say it was probably the best salmon I've had.

Another peak at Taku Glacier, across the river.

I must admit, I was a little nervous going on the short hike along Waterfall Trail after dinner.  After all, I just witnessed two black bears that were literally within 30-feet from me, digging through an open grill looking for salmon scraps.  And here we are, walking a 19-month-old child in the group of hikers...

I had to keep reminding my wife to not lag behind.  I've watched enough Discovery Channel to know that wild animals instinctively prey on the old and the young.  I sure as hell didn't want to make the 8 o'clock news and I certainly wouldn't want harm to come to my family.

At the beginning of the trail.  (See on the left side how we're already lagging behind?)

Fortunate for us, the dogs (whether trained or by instinct) helped keep us in the group and we never fell back too far.  And as they noted, I guess Alaska truly is a rain forest.  I was just plain ignorant in thinking that rain forest = hot/humid, closer-to-the-Equator rain forest.  But nope... it's quite green and lush where we were.

With every step that I took, I felt the value of this particular excursion increase.  There's nothing remotely like this in southern California.  Sure, we have mountains and we can find snow just a mere 2-hours drive (in winter).  But the air here was so crisp and clean.  Sure, it was a little on the chilly side, but wow.  I mean WOW!

Being on the boat... that didn't feel much like a vacation.  Surrounded by a bunch of people you don't really care to know/meet nor mingle.  Being out here, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, a cozy lodge next to a river facing a glacier that's tens of thousands of years old.  I mean aside from the potentially-lethal bears, this was a slice of paradise!

Towards the end of summer... not much of a waterfall now, just a slight trickle.

And I leave you with the bear that was up on the tree, now roaming around after we took our hike.

Granted I don't travel much... but when I do/did, it's very rare where I felt sad leaving a particular location.  I was sad when the time came to leave Taku Glacier Lodge.  I realize that we visited at a time where the weather was nice, the temperature was warm (by Alaskan standards), no howling, freezing winds.  I'm sure 7 months out of the year, the place is just flat out cold and miserable.  But the place is beautiful.  If you're ever in Juneau during the summer time, whether it's there by cruise ship, or flown in, I couldn't recommend Taku Glacier Lodge enough.  The service was great.  The employees all wonderful.  The meal absolutely delicious.  Fantastic experience over all.

On the way back, my friend took shotgun position.  Hehe... I think he made sure he was first on the plane so that he can take that seat up front.

Part IV to come, Skagway.

REVIEW:

♠ Canon EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS

Pros:  What a perfect "standard zoom" lens for travel.  Sure, the 15-85mm range would have came in more handy, but I must confess... especially experiencing overcast conditions... having the constant f/2.8 throughout the entire focal range is a blessing.  The USM on this lens remains THE fastest I've experienced thus far in the Canon line-up, yes, faster than the "L"s that I have.  

Cons:  It's not weather-sealed, but fortunately, it didn't rain on me for that to be of any concern.  It's quite pricey for being a non "L".